No Fixed Abode: Mad dogs and Englishmen

Wed 02 Mar 2016 - Siem Reap

As many of you will know Siem Reap is the gateway to Angkor Wat, indeed our reason for coming here. On the way into town yesterday we noticed the main highway was lined with a few Las Vegas style resort hotels so we were fearing the worst but the town is ok. A bit touristy, Pub Street for example, but ok. We’d planned to spend today pottering around town and the lake, Tonle Sap, so rented a couple of bikes. After a splendid breakfast, we prepared for heat of about 36 degrees, covering up well and plenty of water with us.

As we’ve mentioned previously, Asian roads are manic and this was our first time out without a guide so with some trepidation we took our first nervous pedals. We soon found the best way was to be bold and hope everyone else avoided us. It seemed to work. Either out of fear of hitting a tourist or uncertainty we knew where we we going the locals pretty much stayed out of way - except when we heard large diesel engines accompanied by a horn, then we got out of the way!

Although we’d taken a good look at the map before starting off, the roads never seem the same in reality. Main roads seem the same as minor ones, no road signs, surface changes from tarmac to dirt to concrete - everything sent to confuse. Anyway, what I’m trying to say is we took a wrong turning. As it turned out getting a bit lost was a good thing and it took us down a dusty and boneshaker track past rice fields, duck farms, stilt houses, ladies raking rice to dry, and eventually re-joined the correct road.

Our destination was a small river inlet from the Tonle Sap lake where boat trips can be taken to visit a floating village. We arrived at a rather formal looking but shabby boat terminal and decided to ride on a little further to see if we could maybe barter with a local fisherman. Beyond the terminal the dirt track we’d been on became a mass of potholes, rubble and dust, the further we rode the worse it became and street vendors shacks were on the verge of derelict but worst of all the smell became quite putrid so we turned around and slowly cycled back in the heat to the terminal building.

At one end was a large desk signed ‘Tour Boat Association’, for which read ‘cartel’. We enquired after the price and were told $20 each for private boat rental. $20, for a boat ride in Asia! What about if we get some more people? Still $20 each. We left to sit in some chairs in the shade and have a think and soon heard a small group of musicians playing traditional instruments. Leaving to investigate we found a small band with a sign stating ‘disabled musicians, please donate’ parked conveniently by the exit ramp of the terminal. As soon as the last tourist had past they put down their instruments and had a smoke until the next boat arrived when the same repetitive tune was struck up. After further observation we noticed that this was the exit ramp for the Asian tours, westerners were deposited at another ramp and noticing a boat arrive Glenn shot along to ask someone how the the trip had been. Evidently they take you to the floating islands that comprise of markets selling stuff and an orphanage where you are encouraged to buy sacks of rice or large containers of water for the orphans. This is a common scam in Asia where usually the orphanage isn’t even genuine and the items are sold back to the shop for way less then the tourists paid for them.

That was enough for us. We hung around long enough to deter some other travellers then headed back down the main road to town. With the midday sun scorching on our backs it was hot going and although tempted by many of the hammock bars in the stilted buildings along the route, the cool of the hotel pool beckoned. The pool was as refreshing as we’d hoped and afterwards we laid on some loungers in the shade for a nap.

Before long it was time for dinner so we set off into town for a restaurant run by a local charity that employs disadvantaged people as staff and donates a percentage of its profits to local causes. On the way Yvonne found the perfect wicker hat and on the way home some lightweight harem pants for the temples. She now looks the perfect traveller. Note by Yvonne, yeah like a sack of Desiree's but covered up.