No Fixed Abode: Coconuts on the beach

Wed 30 Mar 2016 - Cycle around Hoi An

Not wishing to return to Hoi An town we opted to cycle eastwards towards the coast. Garnering some rough directions from the hotel reception guy we set off down the back roads through the fields. Although our instructions were crude - left, left then right - they did the job and we were soon on the main road to the coast and, much sooner than expected, we arrived at the beach.

Parking our bikes under the coconut palms we walked to the sea to find a wall of huge sandbags protecting the shoreline from the waves - not the prettiest of beaches. Looking north we could see things improved so we jumped aboard our bikes once more and cruised along until we found a small track signed ‘go to the beach’ that looked more promising.

The end of the track deposited us on a nice stretch of beach lined with palm umbrellas and sun loungers where we were immediately accosted by a young man encouraging us to settle into a lounger - no doubt for a small fee. Warding him off we walked north once more past more clusters of loungers filled with scarlet coloured Europeans reclining in the midday sun (when will they learn?). Realising that it would be a long walk to escape the umbrella plantations we ambled back stopping to buy fresh coconuts to drink. The sales guy tried to sell us a couple of loungers but quick thinking Yvonne negotiated free rental while we drank the milk, which, as the coconuts were so huge, took a long while and kept us out of the midday sun.

The locals use large hemispherical boats woven from bamboo that resemble coracles to fish from. Watching a guy work his way in with a single oar then rock precariously in the surf they seem an inherently impractical craft for such a venture. Once ashore his problems were not over and it was only when half a dozen young tourists went to his aid that they were able to manhandle the craft up the beach.

With our coconuts run dry and the boat excitement over we returned to our bikes and set off for home. Spotting a small dirt track we turned off the main road to follow our noses and cycled along a raised path between rows and rows of rectangular shaped ponds, the purpose of which we could not guess. Feeling rather smug that we were off the tourist track our bubble was burst when we met a group of tourists all lining up to have their photo taken sitting astride a water buffalo. Is there no escape?

Following some expert (lucky?) nose following we found ourselves back at the hotel and ready for a nap after all the morning’s exertions.

As the sun sank low in the sky Glenn cycled into town to raid another ATM for cash (the small withdrawal limit is becoming quite tiresome) and he decided to give Hoi An another chance, which it failed. Cycling home along the riverbank he noticed a restaurant serving the Bun Cha dish we’d enjoyed so much in Saigon and on his return he persuaded Yvonne that the short walk would be worth it.

Dining undercover to reduce the risk of insect attack, we eventually settled on the fixed price Hoi An speciality taster menu, not knowing what to expect. To our delight one of the courses was the pancakes and leaves wrapped in rice paper that we’d eaten on the streets with our Easy Riders nearly a week ago and we impressed the waiter with our knowledge of how to eat it - and, it must be said, with our now half decent chopsticks technique.

With the meal over we set off home in the darkness passing small, still open, pavement “shops” being greeted enthusiastically by each proprietor. One lady sitting in front of a few tables and chairs and a small stall of beer and snacks seemed especially happy to see us and Yvonne sensed the opportunity for a chat as she beckoned us to sit down. Mrs Ha persevered with her English and provided an entertaining half hour telling us of her divorce from her “very lazy” husband, how she worked 0700 to 2200 (longer if customers stayed drinking) every day to earn a living and the constant battle she faced with the hotel opposite, which didn’t like her stealing its customers. Apparently she’d had visits from the local authority following complaints from the hotel but she’d stood her ground stating she was on government property i.e the pavement, and needs to support her son through school. She clearly told us, she was not scared of them and was not alone as she had support, as she produced a book filled with handwritten customer comments, indeed, from all around the world. She really was a great character and had us in stitches when she told us she was on TripAdvisor and Booking.com - not directly but through references in guest reviews of the hotel, Mrs Ha can arrange anything for you. There’s poetic justice. We reluctantly said good night and wished we’d met her earlier as she could doubtless have arranged our car for tomorrow much more cheaply than our hotel and we were potentially preventing her son from becoming a teev - Glenn worked it out, a thief!