Foggy Street

Thu 31 Mar 2016 - Marble Mountain, Hai Van Pass and Hue

An early start this morning to be ready for our driver at 0800. It was our third morning and the super efficient breakfast staff were bringing us our usual food without even being asked! This really has been a super place to stay but we need to head north to Hue.

Our driver took us the marble mountain at Danang, Vietnam’s third city, a few km north of Hoi An. By ‘mountain’ read a small hill that thrusts up in the middle of the urban sprawl, however, it is made of marble and is home to several pagodas and some cave temples. We arrived early, just ahead of the hoards, and walked up the very steep stone steps, avoiding the new tourist elevator, to the first of the caves. The caves are natural features in the hill and have been converted to temples, the largest really quite large, containing some very impressive buddhas carved from the stone.

The space between the caves being either gardens full of marble buddhas and dragons, pagodas complete with chanting monks and incense sticks or, you’ve guessed it, stalls selling drinks and tourist tat manned by aggressive sales women. Regretfully the air was really hazy so the views from the top were very poor but we enjoyed the caves, especially one in which we followed a narrow passage behind the buddha that lead to another chamber and then a scramble up a natural marble vent, polished by the passage of many visitors, that exited from a narrow hole onto the top of the hill.

The longer we stayed the more tour groups arrived, which soon made it unbearable so we returned to street level via a different stairway and roamed past shop after shop, all selling marble statues of every size and description and all with pushy owners urging you inside, until we found our waiting driver.

Danang is going through a major boom and as we drove through the town we passed many high end resorts, not dissimilar to Maui, and dozens of building sites erecting even more. With its new international airport and miles of palm lined beaches it looks set to become a proper tourist hotspot.

Highway 1 leaves Danang to the north through a new tunnel that bores through the headland but we’d asked our driver to take us over the original route - the Hai Van pass, which hugs the steep coastline zig zagging up and over a saddle before dropping down the other side. Had the air been clearer the views would have been spectacular with lush green forest lining the landward side and natural palm fringed beaches the other but the haze made it look like we were viewing it through several layers of cling film. At one corner we asked the driver to pull over so we could take some photos but he pushed on to the summit where the world and his neighbour had stopped and people milled around everywhere snapping the hazy views. Walking a short way we found the obligatory wedding photo shoot taking place on the top of an old army emplacement - lovely. With cameras clicking and a drone circling, the couple stood on top like a bride and groom model on the top layer of a cake. Once the necessary footage had been captured they were helped down with the use of a stepladder - not the easiest feat for the bride in her enormous flowing dress and high heels.

From there we sped down the other side and then made our way to Hue, some two hours away, eventually arriving at 1300 - a real bonus giving us an additional afternoon to explore this former capital city. After the ever helpful staff had presented us with a welcome drink and a much appreciated plate of fruit we set off to find the travel agent to collect tomorrow’s bus tickets. A short while later, bus ticket in pocket, we crossed the Perfume River to reach the vast walls surrounding the old town. They really are mighty impressive. Set inside a wide moat the outer skin must be 4m thick brickwork that is easily 15m high running several km around the original city. Within them is another moat and a further wall enclosing the citadel - another Unesco listed site and our target for tomorrow.

This afternoon we contented ourselves wandering around the outer walls, visiting the huge bronze ceremonial cannons and watching the locals hookings small fish from the moat or catching crickets in their hand before stuffing them into plastic bottles, presumably to eat.

Wandering back to the hotel we asked the friendly staff the location of the top TripAdvisor rated restaurant shown on a poster in the elevator, which turned out to be at the sister hotel across the street. As breakfast had been a long time ago we arrived early, grabbed a table for two and started chatting to the waitress who had lovely English and told us she’d taught herself from the internet just 7 months before - amazing. The food was superb, rightly meriting its rating, and clearly attracted a lot of interest as before long the restaurant was full and turning people away. Good job we got there early. Once finished we demolished a couple of cups of complimentary tea then returned for an early night in readiness for another early start tomorrow.

Climbing the stairs up Marble Mountain

Marble Buddha

Cave temple with Buddha carved from natural stone 

The narrow cave exit

The largest cave

On top of a cake?

Another couple struggle up

One of the gates through Hue's old city walls

The massive bronze cannons

The locals hunting crickets

Coconuts on the beach

Wed 30 Mar 2016 - Cycle around Hoi An

Not wishing to return to Hoi An town we opted to cycle eastwards towards the coast. Garnering some rough directions from the hotel reception guy we set off down the back roads through the fields. Although our instructions were crude - left, left then right - they did the job and we were soon on the main road to the coast and, much sooner than expected, we arrived at the beach.

Parking our bikes under the coconut palms we walked to the sea to find a wall of huge sandbags protecting the shoreline from the waves - not the prettiest of beaches. Looking north we could see things improved so we jumped aboard our bikes once more and cruised along until we found a small track signed ‘go to the beach’ that looked more promising.

The end of the track deposited us on a nice stretch of beach lined with palm umbrellas and sun loungers where we were immediately accosted by a young man encouraging us to settle into a lounger - no doubt for a small fee. Warding him off we walked north once more past more clusters of loungers filled with scarlet coloured Europeans reclining in the midday sun (when will they learn?). Realising that it would be a long walk to escape the umbrella plantations we ambled back stopping to buy fresh coconuts to drink. The sales guy tried to sell us a couple of loungers but quick thinking Yvonne negotiated free rental while we drank the milk, which, as the coconuts were so huge, took a long while and kept us out of the midday sun.

The locals use large hemispherical boats woven from bamboo that resemble coracles to fish from. Watching a guy work his way in with a single oar then rock precariously in the surf they seem an inherently impractical craft for such a venture. Once ashore his problems were not over and it was only when half a dozen young tourists went to his aid that they were able to manhandle the craft up the beach. 

With our coconuts run dry and the boat excitement over we returned to our bikes and set off for home. Spotting a small dirt track we turned off the main road to follow our noses and cycled along a raised path between rows and rows of rectangular shaped ponds, the purpose of which we could not guess. Feeling rather smug that we were off the tourist track our bubble was burst when we met a group of tourists all lining up to have their photo taken sitting astride a water buffalo. Is there no escape?

Following some expert (lucky?) nose following we found ourselves back at the hotel and ready for a nap after all the morning’s exertions. 

As the sun sank low in the sky Glenn cycled into town to raid another ATM for cash (the small withdrawal limit is becoming quite tiresome) and he decided to give Hoi An another chance, which it failed. Cycling home along the riverbank he noticed a restaurant serving the Bun Cha dish we’d enjoyed so much in Saigon and on his return he persuaded Yvonne that the short walk would be worth it.

Dining undercover to reduce the risk of insect attack, we eventually settled on the fixed price Hoi An speciality taster menu, not knowing what to expect. To our delight one of the courses was the pancakes and leaves wrapped in rice paper that we’d eaten on the streets with our Easy Riders nearly a week ago and we impressed the waiter with our knowledge of how to eat it - and, it must be said, with our now half decent chopsticks technique.

With the meal over we set off home in the darkness passing small, still open, pavement “shops” being greeted enthusiastically by each proprietor. One lady sitting in front of a few tables and chairs and a small stall of beer and snacks seemed especially happy to see us and Yvonne sensed the opportunity for a chat as she beckoned us to sit down. Mrs Ha persevered with her English and provided an entertaining half hour telling us of her divorce from her “very lazy” husband, how she worked 0700 to 2200 (longer if customers stayed drinking) every day to earn a living and the constant battle she faced with the hotel opposite, which didn’t like her stealing its customers. Apparently she’d had visits from the local authority following complaints from the hotel but she’d stood her ground stating she was on government property i.e the pavement, and needs to support her son through school. She clearly told us, she was not scared of them and was not alone as she had support, as she produced a book filled with handwritten customer comments, indeed, from all around the world. She really was a great character and had us in stitches when she told us she was on TripAdvisor and Booking.com - not directly but through references in guest reviews of the hotel, Mrs Ha can arrange anything for you. There’s poetic justice. We reluctantly said good night and wished we’d met her earlier as she could doubtless have arranged our car for tomorrow much more cheaply than our hotel and we were potentially preventing her son from becoming a teev - Glenn worked it out, a thief!

On the beach

The fisherman works his unconventional craft

The mysterious pnnds

Off the beaten track?

A Flintstones like gym

Tailors, Lanterns and Tourists

Tue 29 Mar 2016 - Hoi An

Yesterday’s disappointment at saying goodbye to our Easy Riders, Hai and Harry was slightly overcome when the hotel receptionist advised us that he’d given us a free upgrade to a suite - and what a gorgeous room it is. Large, well furnished, beautifully appointed, with a funky open air rain shower and comfy bed it made a our first night a dream.

The Lonely Planet introduces Hoi An “Graceful, historic Hoi An is Vietnam's most atmospheric and delightful town...it boasts the grand architecture and beguiling riverside setting that befits its heritage” and with all the reading we’d done we were looking forward to our time here. What a disappointment! 20 yrs ago this place would have lived up to the hype. It is quaint and has some lovely old buildings but they have all been converted to shops selling tourist tat. Even in the attractions - temples, Unesco heritage houses. It’s very disappointing.

After breakfast (hurrah, muesli and milk) we borrowed some bikes from the hotel and set off into town. By another stroke of fortune, we noticed a group of cyclists exiting a lane a short distance from the hotel so turned down there to find a quiet paved path that took us along the riverbank all the way into town. We surfaced into the hectic streets around the market then made our way to the Japanese covered bridge, a famous landmark, where we left our bikes. Admission to the historic sites is by ticket so we found an office nearby and bought two books of five.

Rapidly realising that the crowds and shops were not just restricted to the market area we fought our way through the throng to one of the Chinese ancient houses. Stepping over the threshold we were ushered to a chair, handed a small cup of tea and told to await an English speaking guide. Very nice. When our guide arrived she explained some of the Chinese architectural features then took us to a point where flood water marks had been made on a wall - it seems this area floods frequently with the 1964 flood nearly at the ceiling.

With the formalities over we stood around a large round table and it was straight into the sales pitch as we were asked our birth years and she promptly produced ‘lucky’ medallions bearing the Chinese zodiac animal, followed by other various ‘lucky’ medallions for the house, place of work, children etc. Politely declining we were left to wander around the house at our own pace to admire the fabulous wood carvings and ceramics.

The historic old town was a major trading post as early as the 11thC and over the years the Japanese and Chinese sailed in and then settled here during their own turbulent times (and then left here during Vietnam’s turbulent times), therefore Chinese influences are everywhere. In particular the streets are bedecked with colourful chinese lanterns swaying in the breeze, unfortunately adding to the touristy feel. Each month at full moon the town turns off the street lights and lights these lanterns which of course, attracts even more tourists.
Luckily, we are not here at full moon. Another influence is bespoke tailors with rows and rows of tailors, all purporting to be the best, cheapest or highest ranking on tripadvisor. Silk clothing was another must buy. 

Somewhat disenchanted we wandered down another narrow lane lined with lovely old buildings all displaying piles of tourist wares overflowing onto the pavements concealing any interesting features. Reaching our next venue we took one look inside and decided to give it a miss. So where next? A temple must be ok, right?

The Chinese assembly hall (temple) was brightly coloured and full of symbolic carvings and statues: dragons. Phoenixes, turtles and other creatures of Chinese buddhism. Wandering around the relative calm with the incense fumes drifting gently around us we turned to leave and found - a large table selling tourist tat. Not here, in a temple, surely.

Becoming disillusioned with the whole place we stopped for a delicious smoothie, successfully using for the first time the words for “no ice” that Harry had taught us. Refreshed, we wandered back to the river, crossed over a bridge to the sculpture park on the far bank. Clustered amongst the relics of last week’s international food festival the random stone monoliths bearing meaningful titles were lost on us. Eventually we came to a bench so Glenn could take his nap while Yvonne watched a couple of old Vietnamese ladies carrying fruit in two baskets slung over their shoulders on a pole (you know the archetypal Asian image) working a couple of Australian tourists. You have a go carrying this and I’ll take lots of photos of you - now buy some fruit at a heavily inflated price. All done with big smiles.

By now we’d both had enough so collected our bikes, stopped at a couple of temples on the way home to use the remainder of our tickets (to be honest, one Chinese temple is very like another and the writing is double Dutch to us) then returned to the hotel to change out of our temple clothes of longer sleeves and trousers. 

Once in shorts we went for a short ride out of town around the rice fields and through the villages watching real Vietnamese life. Farmers in fields, water buffalo grazing, timber workshops, hemispherical bamboo boats and bikes everywhere. Much more us.

Japanese covered bridge

A rare less busy street

Inside the ancient Chinese house

Chinese temple

A lady ferry operator (blue shirt) shuttles a passenger over the river

Restoring one of the temples

Row of beautifully carved temple doors

inside a temple 

Coracles, water buffalo and filed cemetery

An English Easter Monday

Mon 28 Mar 2016 - Easy Rider Motorcycle trip day 5

We set off for our last day with Hai and Harry, togged up in jumpers and jackets in the unseasonably cold air of the mountains, along the Ho Chi Minh trail. Winding through lush green rainforest swerving to avoid the odd roaming water buffalo and with the sound of cicadas chirruping in the air they stopped a couple of times to allow us to walk for a while and enjoy the beauty and serenity of the jungle.

At a corner of the road we stopped and Harry took us into a pineapple field to show us the fruit growing on the stalks of the plants, their saw edged leaves scratching at our legs - they must be a nightmare to harvest. Around the next corner we pulled over at a small wooden shack to sample some of the delicious fruit and watched the serving girl expertly remove the skin and all the seeds with a large sharp knife. It was deliciously refreshing and came with a small saucer of salt that we learned the locals dip their fruit in before eating. It sounds odd but it did change the flavour. For the better? Not sure.

A short while later we pulled off the road and Hai showed took us down a track blocked by a barbed wire gate that we simply stepped around. This was a preserved section of the original Ho Chi Minh trail. He explained that the trail had rest stops every 20km with places to sleep, repair things and eat. The kitchens were set into the hills and had a series of tunnels that carried the smoke from the fires deep into the jungle to prevent the camp from being spotted by US planes. A short way down the trail were the relics of some old vehicles, typical of the type that used the trail. 

With a light but steady rain now starting to fall we donned our waterproofs and began our slow descent out of the mountains passing through small towns with larger and larger plots of rice fields as the valley floor broadened. 

Today's lunch was being taken at Hai’s in-laws and after twisting and turning down some rural lanes we arrived at their home. They are farmers and while they are not wealthy they are not poor either. Hai’s father in law farms rice and mother in law makes soy milk which she sells for children. The living room of the house was quite smart with a tiled floor, a large wooden sofa and chairs, a TV in the corner and huge portrait wedding photos of their two daughters and of the family hanging on the walls. But stepping down into the dining area revealed a different world. A basic concrete shell of small rooms, the kitchen area was dark and shabby with a rice pot bubbling over a small wood fire (evidently similar to the houses the boys live in and typical for Vietnam) and Hai’s father-in-law gestured a metre or so up the wall indicate where the highest flood water had reached. A very different world. We ate the tasty meal they had kindly prepared for us conversing via sign language and the odd translation from the boys and then retired to the lounge to look through the wedding photos of Hai and our host’s daughter. Weddings over here are big business with the bride renting several dresses. The album contained mostly shots from the long glamourous session the couple have with the photographer a couple of weeks before the wedding, with just a few of the ceremony itself. Afterwards we showed them photos of our wedding and family on Glenn’s phone. Smiles all round.

Saying farewell we wound our way through the rural villages until we came to a brick tower, which Hai explained had been built by the Cham people in the 11th century. The brick work was amazing and, with no visible mortar course, scientists from around the world are still trying to find what sticks them together. For a temple, the tower was quite small and Hai explained that, as the Chams were hindu, only the priest would be allowed inside to prepare holy water which he would then bring out for the ceremonies.

Now in acres of flat rice fields we started seeing km markers showing Hoi An was getting close and our adventure would soon be over. After winding through the, alarmingly touristy, streets of Hoi An we reached our hotel nestled on the side of a small river channel. The helpful staff filed out and took our bags from the bikes as they were unloaded and we were left to say our sad, tearful for Yvonne, farewells to the two guys that have given us such a great 5 days and showed us so much of the real Vietnam. We really had such a brilliant time with them and saw and learned so much about Vietnamese culture. 

Harry and Hai demolish their noodle soup breakfast

Jungle

Beautiful...

...but keep your eyes on the road

Part of the original Ho Chi Minh trail

Field of pineapple

Lunch with the in-laws

Rice fields

Cham tower

We say our farewells to Harry and Hai

Head in the clouds

Sun 27 Mar 2016 - Easy Rider Motorcycle trip day 4

Let’s get the first question on your mind - what animals have Glenn and Yvonne eaten today? - out of the way. For lunch we had hearts and kidneys from pigs and for dinner we had cuttlefish and deer.

At 0800 we met the boys, loaded the bikes and headed off for breakfast. The restaurant was packed. It was a flashy place that had won an award for its interesting bamboo architecture - it also served tasty food.

Once on the road our first stop was at a tapioca starch (powder) producer. We’ve seen dozens of roadside places drying the tapioca roots in the sun and it is to places such as this that they are sent. Hai described the process of milling, washing, draining and packaging and explained that it was quite a good business for the family running it.

Next we visited a shrine at the top of a strategically important hill in the war. Hundreds of soldiers from both sides died here and we had to give the boys some time to pay their respects to their ancestors - something very important in Vietnamese culture. Hai then explained that ‘crazy’ things had been observed here at night by the locals so a Buddha shrine had been erected on the opposite side of the road to help the restless spirits find their way.

In the next small town we pulled over at a scrap metal dealer wondering what was going on. Inside Hai showed us the cases of many shells that had been recovered from the fields and told us that 2000 people per year die from unexploded ordnance. A rather chilling reminder of the brutality of war.

Leaving the war behind us for a moment we stopped at a point a few km from the borders of both Laos and Cambodia, the very heart of Indochina, and Hai told us of a local Vietnamese idiom: “When the rooster sings it is heard in three countries”.

After stopping for dinner we then visited a hill tribe village and were once again mobbed by children who appeared from nowhere when they heard the bikes approach. With the candy gone Hai showed us around the village ‘tall’ house, a large bamboo building with a very high roof. Before the adoption of christianity the villagers worshipped pagan gods and the taller the house the closer to the gods they could become. The house acts as a meeting room where the tribes history is passed down by the telling of stories. Beyond the tall house was a huge church - a testament to the success of the missionaries - although there was a large pole outside with spirit catcher pennants blowing in the breeze as a reminder of their superstitious beliefs.

We were now on the Ho Chi Minh road, which has been made over the legendary Ho Chi Minh trail that was used by the north to supply their troops in the south. The road winds upwards past many more hill tribe villages, with their own tall houses, into the rainforest covered mountains. With the air getting cooler we pulled over to don some extra clothes. As we continued climbing the clouds began to drop and we pulled over once more to add another layer. The boys warned us there could be rain ahead and they donned a rag tag array of warm, waterproof gear that we thought must be over the top. Glenn did wear the jacket presented to him by Harry, more to please Harry then anything, but as we climbed into the clouds he was glad of it. The wind blew cold, the forest thickened and a light rain began to fall. As well as the poor visibility the boys were also presented with a road surface that periodically disintegrated into large cracks and potholes and crazy lorry and bus drivers who barged past with several load blasts of their horns.

We took a  well deserved break at a pretty waterfall then pushed on down the other side of the pass to the mountain town of Huyen Phouc Son. With all of us feeling cold we quickly checked in a fought for a spell in a warm shower - the first time we’ve showered for warmth since, well, we can’t remember.

With our spirits lifted we had our last dinner together as the boys will catch the night bus home tomorrow unless a ride back materialises. Dinners have been great fun with them so tomorrow will be strange. At least we’ll be bolder with our choices of food and eating places.

Funky bamboo restaurant

Settling tank for the tapioca

The buddha trying to help the souls of the war dead

Some of the tons of ordnance found in the ground every year

The candy queen

Tall house

Spirit catchers

Harry in his waterproof gear

Roadside waterfall

Misty rainforest

Saddle Sore

Sat 26 Mar 2016 - Easy Rider Motorcycle trip day 3

The trip from Dalat to Hoi An is usually made over 6 days but as we only had 5, today was a double day with lots of travelling.

We’d had a rubbish night’s sleep with the wind rattling the windows and a dog yapping the whole night. At 0730 we left the hotel still full from last night’s meal. Within a couple of minutes we were pulling over at a restaurant for breakfast - eggs and bread. With this delicious treat over we set off on the long road ahead.

The first couple of hours was spent bombing down a major highway with the bikes buffeted by a strong side wind, which did at least get rid of the haze and keep us cool.

Before long we turned off the main road and soon found ourselves in large forest of trees, all neatly planted in rows. Getting off the bikes Hai explained that we were in a rubber plantation then scored one of the trees with his knife. As a trickle of white latex sap dribbled down the trunk he explained the harvesting process. The sap soon solidifies so the farmer has a busy task every morning scouring a fresh groove, catching the sap then collecting it all.

A short ride on and we pulled over at a small plot where the family made charcoal from coffee tree wood, which is, apparently, the best there is. The wood is chopped into 1m logs, stacked in a kiln, set alight then sealed in and allowed to smoulder with very little air for 2 weeks. After then the air supply is blocked off and the fire allowed to slowly extinguish for another week. Eventually the kiln is broken open and the charcoal removed before the whole process is repeated again.

Back on the road we stopped for a delicious lunch then found a hammock bar for a well deserved nap. We awoke to find Harry on the verge of victory of a game of Chinese chess with the owner. With checkmate achieved and much shaking of hands all round, we drove for another long stint before pulling over at a pepper plantation, similar to the place we’d visited near Kep, in Cambodia, but on a much larger scale. Apparently Vietnam is the world leader for peppercorn production.

Next in our Vietnamese botany lesson was a stop at a tapioca field. The edible bulb is part of the root system of a hardy tree and Hai explained it had been a staple foodstuff during the war as it could be hidden amongst other trees, to hide it from US bombers, and didn't need much cultivation - handy when your farmers are all preoccupied fighting for their cause.

With the terrain once again getting mountainous we drove through fields of tea before pulling over at a beautiful pagoda. A short visit and an encounter with the inevitable wedding later we were off for our final visit, and overnight stay, of the day at the large city of Thi Xa Xom Thun. 

Stopping on the way in to buy some washing powder and toothpaste we headed for an orphanage run by the sisters of the local catholic church. Originally established to care for children who’d lost parents in the war it then began saving children from a local hill tribe who have the morbid custom of burying toddlers alive if their parents die before they are two. Supported entirely by donations and with over 200 children to care for, from babies to two at university, they rely on gifts from travellers to help ends meet. We wished we’d given more.

On the way out we visited the church. A large wooden, stilt construction but in an almost identical style to an English church, complete with stained glass windows and columns supporting an arched knave. Outside was prepared for a large ceremony, which made us realise that it was Easter tomorrow. Shame we couldn't have left some eggs for the children.

The evening was spent on the mezzanine of a lovely restaurant listening to the tuneless wails of a karaoke party below and enjoying rice crackers, rabbit and quail - we can’t have many Vietnamese animals left to try.

A dribble of latex from Hai's knife mark

Coffee wood waiting to go in the charcoal kiln

Checkmate is just a few moves away

The obligatory wedding

Another lovely pagoda

Tea and mountains

Tapioca root

A wild bunch of orphanage kids - the bars are for safety not retention.

Inside the timber church

Yvonne and Harry ascend to our mezzanine table in the restaurant