No Fixed Abode: Tongariro Crossing

Mon 14 Dec 2015 - Tongariro Crossing

Everything aligned for a great day's tramping. Weather forecast of sunny spells, no rain, wind chill takes it to 3 deg and volcanic alert level 0.

Off we go then on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing track with steaming vents, hot springs, old lava flows, beautiful water filled explosion craters and stunning views. The 12 mile one way passage should take 5.5 - 7.5 hours to complete but as we didn't want to be tied to shuttle bus times we decided to walk half way and return. It is one of the most popular tramping tracks in NZ, requiring no map reading or compass skills, following a path that is well and truly worn, so much so there are long board walks on the lower parts of the trail, and because of this it was mobbed.

In an effort to avoid the crowds we had left our start intentionally late but we arrived to carnage in the car park and groups of excited, noisy youngsters in an array of walking apparel - from well equipped to girls wrapped in shawls. Dawdling with our preparation and ambling the first couple of miles in an attempt to let the enthusiastic hordes get ahead of us we made our first small detour to a small waterfall described in the guide as 'an oasis'. A few pretty yellow buttercups but nothing special.

Then the climb began up a gentle slope with many sets of wooden stairs across lava flows from previous eruptions. All the volcanoes in the area are still active and there are signboards instructing you to 'get to high ground if the ground trembles' but, stuck out here, it would be difficult to escape any flows - good job we had an alert 0.

At the top of this climb we reached the edge of South crater - a vast, yellow plain surrounded by cliffs with the pole marked route of the path dissecting it. We had a bite to eat whilst deciding whether to attempt the 2287m Mount Ngauruhoe, made famous as Mount Doom in The Lord of the Rings. This side track is classified as 'expert' with no marked route and an additional 650m climb.

Mount Ngauruhoe is a single cone active volcano, quite unusual in these parts, so is wonderfully symmetrical - it had to be done. The climb is very steep, about 30 degs, with a surface of loose rocks, scree (stones) and sand - not ideal walking. Following the rock ridge directly up toward the summit we had to be aware of falling rocks dislodged by others on the steep slopes above us but once above the ridge there was only a band of red rocks and sand to reach the crater rim. Mid way up we passed several youngsters who we didn't see again until much later in the day - way to go retirees.

Around the rim are several active steam vents (fumeroles) that make the rocks very hot and we could feel the soles of our boots heating up. We walked around the rugged, multi coloured rock, narrow in places and with steep drops, to see the amazing views. In the foreground the Blue Lake, the Emerald Lakes, Mount Tongariro, the Red Crater, vast lava rivers and the snow capped Ruapehu. In the distance the whole of the National Park. Lake Taupo and miles beyond.

With a cold wind blowing at this altitude (the crater was still full of snow) we found a nice patch of warm rock to sit on out of the wind. Glenn was comfortable but Yvonne complained of being too hot and after much shuffling she eventually stood up to move and found she had damp trousers from a tiny steam hole she'd been sitting over.

Eventually we dragged ourselves from the stunning views for the descent. The scree now became our friend and we were able to jump, walk and slide our way down, with many stumbles onto our bums, to quickly return to central crater. We now had another decision to make. It was getting late and we were tired but we really wanted to see the Emerald and Blue lakes close up, however, another 250m climb over the summit of Red crater stood in our way. We agreed to get to that summit and see how things were.

The walk over central crater was awe inspiring, imagining the force to throw that much rock into the sky and wondering whether the simmering magma deep beneath our feet would stay silent. The climb out and up the ridge to the summit was very windy and tiring on already fatigued legs but the summit was spectacular. The aptly named Red Crater comprised many different shades of red and contained an amazing rock spout that must have once spewed molten lava.

From this spot the lakes could be seen clearly below us but with time against us and tired legs pleading against the return climb we decided to begin our trip back to the car. As it was quite late by now most other walkers had passed through so we had the Central crater to ourselves - brilliant. The return was an uneventful march that seemed to be much further than this morning but we got to car before 1900 and returned for showers and a massive curry.

Another awesome day!