No Fixed Abode: Sitting on the Eye of a Needle

Sunday 6th December 2015 - Coromandel Pinnacles tramping track

Setting off early passing through the town of Thames we drove up the gravel Kauaeanga Valley road to start our hike for the day in an area of bush clad hills, rock outcrops, pinnacles, bluffs and gorges. This valley was once filled with the magnificent kauri trees but from the 1870s to 1920s it was extensively logged so few of them remain.

The hike involved several sections of tracks starting with the 3 hour Webb Creek route following the historic packhorse route used by Maori bushman in the 20's to travel to logging sites in the upper Kauaeranga Valley. They'd bring up supplies for the millers and tree fellers, who cleared out the kauri trees. Sod doing this everyday to get to work.

Shaded in pretty forested areas of regenerating kauri and massive ferns we stopped for a bite to eat at a trickling clear water stream reached by crossing over a funky one man suspension bridge at Webb Creek. Crossing this we climbed steps for the next 1 1/2 hours that were cut into the rock to make the journey easier for the packhorses.

The rest of the trail was a steady climb and we quickly covered the ground surprisingly meeting very few people and those we did were young backpackers on their way to stay overnight at the new Hut at Moss Creek.

To the Pinnacles themeselves whilst not dangerous, it isn't for the faint hearted. It took a 50 minute cardio workout to get to the top but involved a steady climb, steep steps, climbing ladders and handheld metal bars to heave yourself up and over large rocks. Yvonne had been anticipating all of this with some trepidation, however, quickly realised we had managed a lot worse than this elsewhere. No worries.

The 360 deg. summit views were absolutely amazing. Spectacular views of the bush, mountains and coastline of the eastern Coromandel Penninsula. We both agreed this was one of the best views from a summit we have enjoyed in all our walking. We lingered a long while here enjoying the peace and quiet especially after a handful of boisterous Danish and German youngsters left.

The 50 minute cardio workout was now reversed and all the steps down were playing a toll on our knees. Never mind, it only took us 2 1/2 hours up so the trek back should be fine - right?

A third of the way down we took the decision to take another trail back, Billygoat trail shown as a 3 hour route. Yes we could easily crack that in 2 1/2 hours we reckoned. The first part was a steady 30 minute climb, NOT what you expect on a track taking you homewards. Grunting up this was arduous but we anticipated some excellent viewpoints, otherwise why would anyone do this track? Finally dropping down in to the Billygoat Basin we could hear the Falls but never spotted a vantage point to see them. Then we couldn't believe it, another flipping, blinking climb. Two thirds of the way around we both agreed coming this way was a mistake and doggedly cracked on a cross uneven and slippery stone paths and negotiating boulders with bush and forest, obscuring any chance of a view from this side of the valley. In silence we frogmarched our way home, infuriatingly being overtaken by two youngsters who just hopped their way through the boulders at great speed whilst our knees and calves were burning.

The last information board showed a 3 minute crossing of the river to the car park or a 7 minute detour up and over - a no brainer. We got a bit wet but got to the car just before 7pm. Yvonne promptly fell asleep as our little car bumped it's way home.

In Thames we spotted the Punjab Bistro, so dragged ourselves there and ate possibly the worst Indian meal we have either had, but heck we just needed food.