No Fixed Abode: Whale of a time

Tue 02 Feb 2016 - Kaikoura

After a fitful night of noise (yes there were freight trains) and heat we wearily set off in bright sunshine for Kaikoura, the marine wildlife capital of NZ.

Following the normal morning routine we headed to the I-site to look at whale watching options, eventually settling for a boat trip with a self proclaimed 98% success rate that left 30 mins later. Hot footing it round the corner we arrived at a very flashy building and went straight to the check-in desk - yes, just like at an airport. As we were about to discover, this is a very slick organisation.

Once in possession of our boarding passes (till receipts) we were directed to a screening room to watch whale documentaries and the obligatory safety briefing before being whisked onto a bus for the short journey to the quay at South Bay where our boat awaited.

Following the swift boarding process we were rocketing on our way and being bombarded with whale information, safety information and viewing protocols. A short while later we allowed out on deck to assist the crew in hunting for whale signs - blow spouts, tails that sort of thing - while the crew lowered a Heath Robinson piece of kit that listened for whale noises (Yvonne suspected this was all part of the drama). During the talk we learned that the sperm whales we sought can hold there breath for 2 hours, although 45 mins is more normal, so finding one for the few minutes they are on the surface is quite an art.

Within a short time the crew were marshalling us back inside and the boat leapt off at high speed where a sighting had been reported (all the tour operators keep in touch and broadcast any sightings). Seconds later we were back on deck staring out our first sperm whale. Well, when I say whale, I mean the small fraction of the whale that is visible above the surface. Although not much to see as such it was a magical experience nevertheless as this huge creature cruised through the water occasionally taking a massive breath to re-oxygenate his body. Eventually one of the crew recognised the whale was going to dive and told us to get our cameras at the ready. Seconds later to a cacophony of camera shutter sounds its back arched and it’s tale elegantly rose out of the water before disappearing beneath the surface.

The buzzing crowd slowly returned inside, excitedly recounting the experience to other. Then it was off again to another reported sighting. When instructed we all pushed and shoved to hurredly get back outside and join the two other boats and a hovering helicopter already there. This chap was a bit bigger but basically performed the same routine to more ahhs and ooohs as his tail fluke dipped below the water.

Thinking that was our lot we returned chatting and comparing photos before the crew told us we were now off to hunt for other marine life. Well, this trip just got much better. Before long we were surrounded by bottlenose dolphins (the archetypal ones), dusky dolphins, pilot whales (like a large black dolphin), royal albatrosses and shearwaters. With the dolphins leaping all over the place and making close passes of the boat, a small pod of pilot whales cruising gracefully on their way and birds skimming the water then wheeling overhead it was difficult to know where to look. We were all running around the top deck like demented school children with cameras flapping about trying to get the best shots. One particular old lady was getting so excited I don’t know how she kept going.

Eventually time was called and we reluctantly trudged back inside trying to capture one last masterpiece before being sped back to base.

How do you follow that. I’ll tell you. You go for a walk around the peninsula. The retreating tide leaves a large rocky plateau that is rammed full of seals and seabirds. We walked around the bottom of the cliffs dodging snoozing seals and listening to the gulls squabbling until the well worn track began to get not quite so well worn. With Yvonne expressing a desire to continue Glenn took a peep around the next headland to be dive bombed by an irate red billed gull that somehow perceived a ground ridden old man as a threat to his nest 10-20m up the cliff (maybe he’d heard of his former rock climbing prowess). The gull continued to harass the unwanted intruder until his was back safely round the headland and conceding defeat at the hands of two tenacious birds (Yvonne and the gull).

Returning via the clifftop path we passed numerous information boards then set in the cooling late afternoon sun before returning to the van. With rear doors flung wide open we dined enjoying the magnificent views and the sound of the waves - although not the constant squabbling racket of the gulls. Then it was off a few miles down the road to a lovely beach side camping spot where, hopefully, the sound of crashing waves - the quite load sound of crashing waves - will mask any distant trains. Another awesome NZ day!