No Fixed Abode: An unplanned surprise

Thu 04 Feb 2016 - Hamner Springs

Bit of an unintentional day today. After falling asleep under the most amazing star filled sky then waking to a glorious mountain sunrise we left the peaceful campsite at Rotherham in clear blue skies. The plan had been to breakfast and shower at Hamner Springs, a spa/ski resort town, then up pick up some walking leaflets at the iSite for Lewis Pass, our next destination. Things didn’t turn out that way.

Shortly after the turning for Hamner we crossed a timber bridge spanning a rocky gorge some 20-30m over a surging river torrent. When you approach such a bridge the last sign you want to see is “only one heavy vehicle at a time”. After checking there were no other vehicles we sped across to terra firma on the far bank.

Just around the corner was a layby with beautiful views over the river, its valley and the surrounding mountains. With the sun shining brightly we backed the van to the edge of the high cliff, threw open the rear doors and ate breakfast soaking in the view. As we were preparing to leave a young German girl came over for a chat and an hour later we’d swapped travel stories, shared our south island itinerary and learned of her extensive travels.

With the temperature now well into the 20s C we entered Hamner Springs to find the details of a waterfall walk our German friend had recommended and deciding Lewis Pass would have to wait until tomorrow. The town sits on one of NZ’s many thermal springs, hence the name, and is a very smart resort. Signs restricting all manner of things posted everywhere, well manicured lawns bordering the huge redwood trees lining the roads and a large parking area fronting the various thermal spas. Finding our way on a large map we set off into the forest for the waterfall walk.

At the car park we opened all the doors and windows to relieve the heat, took lunch and whiled away some more time snoozing in the sunshine. Eventually we decided we ought to actually do something today so set off along the 2.5hr waterfall trail.

Unexpectedly the path climbed up through the beech forest for almost its entire length and although we were glad of the shade the trees provided they also shielded us from the strong refreshing breeze so before long we were very hot. Passing a large group of school children part way up we reached the a cool shaded cove into which the waterfall dropped some 30m. Unlike the other waterfalls we’ve visited in NZ we were able to get to the very base of this one and really appreciate its height. While we admired the scene a young kiwi couple arrived and the girl prepared to have her photo taken standing under the waterfall. Camera at the ready the guy directed her in and she stepped into the freezing water with enthusiasm - and then quickly stepped out. To much laughter the guy stated that the camera had not worked and she needed to get back under the water, whether this was genuinely the case or he was having a laugh we never established. With the photo captured and the girl advertising how refreshing the experience had been Yvonne suggested we should give the guy our camera and both do the same. Glenn, who had a) felt the water temperature while standing in the stream taking our photographs and b) already observed the photographic skills of the guy, declined. Having dissuaded Yvonne from taking the plunge by herself we returned to the van.

Once back in the town, by now late afternoon, we completed some shopping/rubbish chores then joined a small group sitting in the shade outside the library using the internet to send a few emails before leaving. We had considered having dinner at the same viewpoint as breakfast but the wind was really quite strong by now so we travelled up the valley a few miles and found another layby with an equally fabulous panorama and flung the rear doors open. During our pre dinner drinks we felt the presence of the curse of NZ - sandflies. Doors closed, windows shut back into west coast cocoon mode admiring the scenery through the glass.

With dinner over we set about looking for a site for the night and after driving a few miles along the highway found a small parking area at the trailhead of a long distance path with lovely views all round.