No Fixed Abode: Assault on the senses

Sun 21 Feb 2016 - Bangkok

A good sound sleep saw us both ready for the day ahead. The hotel breakfast was very entertaining as we were the only non Asian people there, however, this hotel is European themed and looks like it appeals to the wealthy, younger Asians who are trying to adopt the Western lifestyle. Yvonne found it quite humorous as they ate cereals without milk together with chicken sausages and rice and curry, all on the same plate.

Glenn was keen to show Yvonne some of the sights, reminiscing about his trip here 10 years ago and how great this city is, unusual for him. We decided to walk the streets to visit some of the famous temples and Glenn suggested we caught the water taxi boat along the main canal as it showed another facet to the city. Luckily, Glenn had known where to board the water boat, otherwise tourists would have little chance of finding the boarding points. Leaving the constant noisy traffic on the main roads we took some steps down to a dark, smelly and very low underpass which was full of little barrow stalls selling food and quite a hive of activity. Clutching Glenn’s hand Yvonne followed along through a melee of people rushing past in both directions and we realised we had just missed a boat. We then ambled through the dark alley and came to the canal. It was filthy, very smelly and not very wide. The waiting platform resembled a few disintegrated pallets cobbled together and the whole canal side was littered with what looked like dumped “stuff”. A French couple wandered down clutching a map looking a bit lost and noticing Yvonne asked if this was the way to the Golden Mount and how did they get tickets. Glenn duly helped with the information and you could see them relax and smile. The tensions of travel!

Within moments a tatty type of barge came alongside and Glenn showed Yvonne how to jump on quickly ducking under the tarpaulin roof and hopping over wooden benches to get a seat. It was packed full but we managed to find a couple of spots at the end of a bench. Roaring off, the engine in the middle of the barge belched out voluminous black smoke and the speed gave us a welcomed breeze and we paid the conductor the 15 pence each for our trip. At a fair pace we continued down the canal passing the backs of shanties with washing hanging out, buckets, brooms, chickens in cages suspended out over the canal, small shrubberies, scooters and copious amounts of cardboard used as shelters of some sort. The next stop, was a lot busier and it was a race of people getting off and on, with the engine racing and general mayhem. Again roaring off and we met another barge coming from the opposite direction and just in time Yvonne spotted people up the front of the boat pulling a tatty bit of rope which raised a bit of plastic sheeting to shield you from the wake and splashes of the oncoming barge. Glenn grabbed the rope near us and we narrowly averted getting soaked. No wonder the end seats had been available! As we passed under low bridges the conductor pulled down on the roof and bent down just scraping under them. At the last stop, ours, we managed amongst the chaos to leap off unscathed and followed the crowd through a dark alley, up some steps and we were in the somewhat safety of the streets.

There were people, cars, scooters, tuk tuks, squawking cockerels and golden temples in every direction. Total sensory overload. Yvonne had by this time made a decision not to let go of Glenn’s hand at all today.

Led by a tight hand, we bounded off across a narrow bridge dodging the oncoming traffic to what Glenn had promised would be the quiet sanctuary of the Golden Mount. Looking up, the gold roof shone brightly in the distance and we followed the street towards it. The pace and noise was easing and the humid air was full of the fragrance of jasmine. We turned a corner to the entrance and bam - selfie stick wielding orientals everywhere! Some what dismayed we followed the steps up encircling a tower structure interrupted by small courtyards holding lines of hanging bells and a large gong. The Asian visitors walked along and systematically donged every bell just once and then three quiet bongs on the gong.

On reaching the main floor we entered the building where several people were knelt and bowing to golden images and figures set on a display platform however, the majority of tourists ignored them and took a small and tight staircase up to outside and the top of the roof. It was here a larger volume of people were praying to huge figurines and statues on a central platform and making sure to keep the soles of their feet facing away from Buddha, apparently a hugely disrespectful act. We noticed people purchasing packages from a small kiosk, containing what looked like the bright orange monks clothes and placed on gold stands they left them on the platform. We could only surmise these would be given to the monks later. This wasn’t a silent respectful place and as we walked around the four sides of the roof which gave panoramic views across the city, we dodged the selfies takers, noticed a sign saying free wifi which had the majority glued to their screens with their thumbs swiping furiously, constant chatter of the younger asians and then we noticed the kiosk seller going around collecting the orange packaged offerings and putting them back on his stall to sell. Oh really!?

The sun was getting stronger as we descended down the steps so we headed for the refuge of Wat Ratchanatda, another temple which is not as famous but, in fact, more beautiful inside. This provided the peaceful sanctuary we had been seeking and in its grounds were several other temples which we pottered around. One, interestingly, had English information boards explaining about the building of it, which took roughly 100 years, and we followed a maze of darkened and cool marbled corridors, up a flight of beautiful wooden stairs to the top and stepped outside to the heat of the day and more views across the city. The walls on the route down explained the basic Buddhist concepts and the path to enlightenment to reach the state of nirvana. We agreed we both somewhat failed at the first steps and it was possibly too difficult for us to amend our ways. However, practising the meditation techniques and chanting seemed a good start, let’s see how that goes.

Now hot and tired we plonked ourselves down in the shade, of a six tabled cafe in the temple grounds where orange gowned monks were also having milkshakes and cakes. Slowly revived by banana milkshakes we stopped to watch a pre wedding photo shoot with the bride to be in a bright red gown and copious make up and the groom in traditional Thai suit with lovely gold breeches. They both looked like they were sweltering.

We duly jumped on water taxi homeward bound, retraced our noisy roadside route to the hotel and turned up the room air con to cool down. Venturing out for dinner, a new pastime for us as so far on our travels we have been able to cook for ourselves, the hotel golf buggy took us out to a main road and duly dumped us with a vague wave of a hand for directions. We then spent a lot of time walking around pavements all made narrower by endless food kiosks and stalls selling, basically, tat and which were overflowing with people dashing in all directions. With Yvonne wilting and getting despondent we took the decision to go into one of the shopping malls to find food. Within minutes we were faced with decisions on where best to eat. Losing the power to make a decision Yvonne stepped over the threshold to the “Gold Mine” and as quick as you like we were seated and drink and food ordered. On looking around we could see we were in a Disney style themed Mine but heck the food came quickly and was good.

Just the long walk back to the hotel and we crashed to bed after a long, hot and tiring day.