No Fixed Abode: In tandem

Mon 01 Feb 2016 - Marlborough wine trail

The Wairau Diversion Reserve (snappy title!) where we camped last night was very peaceful and it took the cars of the keen early morning fishermen to wake us. Finally, the sun was shining, the skies looked very clear and it was warm. We ate breakfast with the back doors flung wide open and waved to the odd car going past us on the dirt track as they headed off for some fishing. Everyone waved back at us. It would also appear people drive along with their dog bounding behind as if to exercise it without them having to.

We had an half an hour drive to Renwick, just enough to get the hot water for a shower, before we collected the bikes. Along the route we saw the pick up van of “bike 2 wine” and decided we should phone ahead to reserve ours, a tandem.

Renwick is in the heart of the wine region and there were around 25 vineyards cellar doors within 5 km from the bike hire. Yvonne just had her fingers crossed they weren’t the famous kiwi miles again. The rental guy gave us some advice on where to taste and dine, fixed us up with a 21 gear tandem, hi vis vests and helmets. Having learnt our lesson last time we cycled, around Waiheke Island in North Island, and burned alot, we both slapped on factor 50, and took hats and took long sleeves as a precaution.

After a first apprehensive wobble down the side road we quickly settled in to the tandem stride with Glenn in front and Yvonne behind. All is good while you are peddling and moving, however, it is necessary for the back person to know when the pedaling is going to stop and start again, otherwise they get those famous pedal skin scrapes down their shins. After Glenn had been advised of this by Yvonne we ate up those kms to our first stop at Gibson Bridge Vineyard.

No, we had never heard of them either, but the cycle hire guy recommended it. We arrived to a plush looking door on a converted garage really, with a note that read ‘back in 5 mins’ so we sat outside in the sun until a Range Rover Vogue screeched into the driveway, Howard bounded out and welcomed us like all the kiwis have done so far, smiling, happy and full of life. Enthusiastically, he wanted to know all about us and still we were standing outside. C’mon on in, he waved us. Inside was dressed with chandeliers, mirrored walls and plenty of framed certificates for awards. Immediately we were given Pinot Gris that neither of us normally like nor would buy at home. Hmm, we were about to change our minds on that now. Even Glenn oo’d over this white, normally a staunch red winer only. Howard gave us 5 tastings in all, Reislings, Gerberverstein and two delicious dessert wines, again something we would never have at home. During this tasting process Howard basically gave us his whole story of leaving Auckland, buying this land, planting every vine himself with his wife, tenderly caring for each row throughout the year, the lifecycle of grapes, the weather conditions, the diseases, the top Chefs who only buy from him (he supplies Virgin Upper Class flights with his wines) and all the occupations of each of his children and their partners. Howard seriously ate into the timings for the day, but he was so passionate about grapes and helping us to understand a little more about wine. We managed to get away with a firm handshake and a quick photo and legged it to the tandem.

Next stop had to be just around the corner to get some time back, so we followed the Renwick cycle trail to Framingham Wines. This had a very modern cellar door with pretty rose gardens, centre fountain and plenty of seating in the shade. We arrived at the same time as two other tandems so once inside the duty manager encouraged us all to taste at the same time. Again we were given around 5 tasters, with the other tandem couples slurping and spitting theirs out into the spittoon, Glenn and I only did that if we really didn’t like them otherwise it all went down the hatch. Well what a polished lot the ladies who did the tastings were, very knowledgable about the grapes, soils, winemaker (heralds from Sunny Tyneside) and skilled at getting a purchase out of every single one of us. Yvonne buying a vintage dry Reisling having not drunk Reisling since it was poured warm into a pint glass at someones 21st party dancing to Randy Crawford’s ‘Street Life’..

We now needed some food. Both relaxed, we hopped on the old tandem and set off in complete unison to Wairau River cellar door, recommended by Lonely Planet, so who knew basically. The car park was full and ours was the only bike there. Inside the tasting/cellar door was busy so we found a table outside in the shade of a pergola and both ordered a lamb burger. Armed with that knowledge we then returned to the tasting area and, as the only two there, the duty manager gave us the standard 5 samples and we cheekily asked for a Syrah which she obliged with. We both were wowed by this and ordered it for our meal. The views were over the rows and rows of vines with the mountains in the distance and still the sun was shining. The burger was sensational we both agreed.

Onwards to the next tasting, we needed to muster up some power for a longish cycle to a brewery, Moa. It was quite hot on the road so we were keen to get there sharpish and Glenn managed to get us up through the gears without incident. At one point a guy drove alongside us and yelled out across the window, “couples that cycle together stay together”. It made us smile.

The route took us past acres and acres, rows and rows of vines from several vineyards some of which we recognised from home. Up a dusty track we came across the Moa brewery and with great anticipation we bounded in hoping to find a new beer. Unfortunately the guy behind the tastings didn’t give us the usual kiwi welcome and just poured 5 tasters out for us with little enthusiasm or commentary. Both disappointed by him and the beers we stayed for a brief time then went outside to lie in their giant beanbags. With the combination of beer, wine, lunch and sun Glenn had his power nap whilst Yvonne got hold of the camera to take copious photos of the surrounding vineyards. On waking we both decided we’d had enough tastings and cycled back to Renwick town to take a look around. The cycle back took longer than the time it took to get around the town, basically a high street with a fish and chip shop and hairdressers. We took the tandem back and decided to head off south to Kaikoura in a very hot campervan.

The drive was quick and we dropped into a DOC site situated in between the railway line and the beach,which was free. Looking very similar to a festival field on one side with tents everywhere we tucked ourselves away in a corner hoping a freight train didn’t come by in the early hours - three did!