Another very early start this morning to make the 45min drive to the Imfolozi game reserve for the 0600 gate opening. Starting in the dark we drove cautiously past the “Beware hippos crossing” signs and the scores of people walking along the side of the road. With their dark cloths and black skin they are impossible to see until very close. This is something Carole and Phil had pointed out to us on their route map.
At the gate entrance Glenn completed the usual lengthy entry permit while listening to the zulu chatter on the vhf radio dangling behind the counter. The lady official translated the message and pointed to two places on the map to indicate the location of a giraffe kill and the sighting of wild dogs. With expectations high Glenn returned to the car to give, a very sleepy, Yvonne the exciting news.
Although dusk, supposedly the best time to see stuff, especially cats, we saw no animals at all for the first few km until we rounded a bend and saw a couple of stationary cars at the side of the road. Quickly pulling our binoculars from their cases we opened the windows to the cool morning air and scanned the hillside. In a clearing between the trees on the ground was the carcass of a giraffe being feasted upon by a pack of hyenas with 20-30 vultures either sitting patiently waiting their turn or daring a quick nibble before being chased off by an irritated hyena. It was like a scene from a wildlife programme and we watched, fascinated, for a long time. The giraffe has one on the shortest sleep requirements of any animal, between 10 minutes and 2 hours in a 24 hour period, so we wondered how this unfortunate individual came to its end.
Freshly enthused and with Yvonne now alert and scanning the terrain, we drove slowly along the road looking for more wildlife. At one stage we passed mountains of fresh dung and could smell signs of elephant (using our new found tracking skills) but we had no sightings although we did spot a huge lizard slowly waddling across the ground with his ridiculously long and black tongue flashing out ahead of him.
Passing the inevitable herds of impala we stopped to let one group pass around us and excitedly watched as a rogue male was chased off in noisy fashion by the herd’s alpha male. He was not about to share his ladies with anyone.
This park, the oldest in South Africa, is famous for its rhino and has bred and relocated a significant number from a low point of just 20 back in the poaching days so we were hopeful of some good viewings - we were not disappointed. Throughout the day we had close, very close on one occasion, encounters with several pairs roaming through the bush munching on the grass. They are fascinating creatures. So large yet really quite elegant on their feet and seem so placid, although they can probably do some serious damage with the large, fierce looking horns if angered.
We also had close encounters with two herds of giraffes both comprised of around 20 animals. It was intriguing to watch them nibbling at the leaves and ambling slowly but elegantly across the road. They are such bizarre creatures but utterly captivating.
The park has several water holes, a couple of which have hides overlooking them that we had been recommended to visit. We waited at the first for a long time. Although it was the heat of the day there was plenty of dung and footprints around so we were hopeful of some action but as Glenn fell asleep for a midday nap on one of the comfortable padded viewing benches Yvonne watched a lone impala wander slowly around the side of the hole and take up station in the shade of a small tree, where he stood for a long time. The only other action were turtles sunbathing on the shoreline. As Glenn awoke to hear this news the impala suddenly bolted at incredible speed and every pair of binoculars in the hide were were raised expectantly to their owners’ eyes, hastily scanning for a predator but no sign to be found.
We decided to try our luck at the second hide and on the on the way Yvonne spotted two large vultures standing in their nest, which was perched precariously atop a tree. Another interesting sight. The other hide was at a beautiful water hole sitting beneath a dried up waterfall and surrounded by trees, however, despite this idyllic location we couldn’t see a single footprint in the muddy shore so only stayed long enough to admire some brightly coloured bee eater birds.
On our way out we passed the giraffe carcass again to find a single hyena struggling to tear a piece of meat from the bone. He repeatedly twisted, shook and tugged at whatever it was in his mouth but he could not seem to shift it. Meanwhile the vultures had now been permitted access and they were taking it in turns to scavenge inside the giant carcass and reappear with some scraps.
With the light fading we tried the last two river overlooks with no luck but we did pass a final herd of giraffe just before the gate. No cats but hyenas, vultures, a lizard and plenty of rhino and giraffe so a good trip.
We arrived home in darkness, although it was only 1830, and very hungry after a long day. With a craving for something simple and quick we dined on chicken, baked beans and mash - the stuff of childhood. By 2030 we were both asleep in bed!
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