No Fixed Abode: Dartmoor on Steroids

Mon 16 May 2016 - Southern Drakensberg, Cobham area

The dog caused us further problems last night by barking incessantly for over two hours and keeping us both awake, which kissed goodbye to our early start. We rose wearily but excitedly and managed to get underway around 0830, driving the short distance on the main road before turning off on the 16km dirt road that led to the park. Part way along we came up behind a large herd of cows being driven slowly down the road - it seems animals are determined to thwart us today.

Eventually we made it to the park gate, paid our admission, discussed a route with the ranger, bought a map and signed the hiking register - then we were off, finally. This was our first major hike since leaving New Zealand and we were really looking forward to it.

Our route took us along the side of a river for the first 2km until we reached the turning for the Emerald Stream trail, our chosen route. The first job was to ford the river we’d been following then it was out across the wilderness, miles and miles of dry brown grass interspersed with rocky cliffs, flat topped mountains and steep sided valleys and with the 3000m tops of the Southern Drakensberg cliffs in the distance. The terrain is similar to Dartmoor, in England, but on a much, much larger scale.

On the map the trail is shown as a ‘major path’ but, with long overhanging grass, at times it was difficult to follow but we made steady progress slowly climbing to a 2000m saddle that would be our high point. As well as a walking area the park is home to a variety of wildlife and we occasionally caught sight of a lone antelope or baboon. Although we were high above sea level the bright sunshine made for warm walking and we were soon down to shorts and t shirts and glad of our hats. At a particularly good vantage point we stopped for lunch and admired the view while munching on the large rolls and scones we’d bought yesterday. It was so good to be back in our beloved mountains.

Near the top of the saddle we came across a small lone antelope surrounded by a large pack of baboons. At first we thought they were hunting it but it soon bounded out of the circle and off into the distance. With the excitement over we made a steady push for our summit and were soon standing on a wide plain deciding which way to go next - follow the path and walk an extra 3 km or cut across country. With plenty of time we opted to stay on the path as even this was uneven walking so goodness knows what open country would be like.

As we set off we could see a large monolithic rock jutting up from the ground a km or so ahead - according to the map ‘pinnacle rock’. When we reached its base we could see it was enormous, easily 20m high, and surrounded by other huge boulders. Goodness knows how they all got here.

After a few photos we contoured around the base of a large buttress then, with a bit of finagling, found the intersecting path we were searching for and started our return journey to the car park. The path worked its way steadily down via a couple of steep cliff scrambles until it met the stream in the base of the valley we had been following. The stream bed had been carved out of solid rock by millennia of flowing water and smoothed into beautiful curved pools joined by elegant chutes and steps. A magical spot that we could have tarried at but time was pressing on and we had to be back by 1700, the time we’d declared on our registration form - plus the light fades quickly at 1730.

By now we were both starting to get tired and we were relieved to join the popular Golden Cup trail, which was well walked and easier on the legs, but less impressed about the climb now ahead of us. In fact it wasn’t that arduous and it did open up a new view. Now it was a steady contour around a last buttress and a steady drop back to the car park.

A couple of cliff scrambles later and we came to stone way marker labelled ‘Golden Cup’ one way and ‘Bypass Ridge’ the other - a no brainer. With the car park now in sight we strode along the straight, level bypass and before long we were at the rickety suspension across the river but not before encountering a large herd of Eland - the largest of the antelope family. Once over the wobbly bridge (they don’t build them like the DOC boys in New Zealand) we reached the car, stretched our aching muscles then made our way to the gate to sign out on the registrar - 15mins before deadline. We’d spent a whole day walking and not seen a single person - true wilderness, just how we like it. Then it was back down the bumpy dirt track while admiring the autumn colours of the trees warmed by the low golden sunlight - just beautiful.

Back at the house we stoked the log fire and enjoyed a great dinner in the cosy warmth of our little cottage. Fingers crossed the dog is less vocal tonight.