Wet and Windy

Tue 12th January 2016 - Doubtful Sound: Kayak trip day 2

Mathiau awoke us all early so we could get back to the main sound before the forecasted strong winds building later in the day. Sandfly evasion tactics began immediately covering as much as possibly and liberally spraying the rest. After a large breakfast of porridge, which thankfully we had remembered, we struck camp and repacked the canoes - the presence of the sandflies accelerating the whole process.

Once out on the water it was a straight paddle along the arm of the sound where we’d spent the night to get to the min channel before the winds set in. On the way we took the kayak beneath another small waterfall to take a shower, most refreshing, then further along the shore we found a dead shark nestled in some rocks.  Mathiau got very excited and exited his kayak to take photos, believing it to be a small great white shark about 3m in length.

Our dream for this trip was to kayak alongside a pod of dolphins so it was with great excitement we saw a large collection of fins rising in and out of the water a few hundred meters away. We watched them for a few minutes changing their course tantalisingly towards us only for them to veer away and as Fiordland is a sanctuary we were not allowed to pursue them. Another reason to return.

By the time we got to the main channel the wind had begun to strengthen and the island we’d planned to visit was at the far side. Mathiau organised us into formation, told us where to head towards and we commenced battle with the wind and the waves it created. It was a fierce, energy sapping struggle and we made it ⅔ of the way across but eventually Mathiau became concerned for the groups wellbeing and changed our course towards home and the wind behind us.

Sheltering in the lee of another small island we rafted together for a rest and Mathieu told us the conditions were the limit for an inexperienced part like us and we’d done really well. After he told us the Maori tale of how the fjords had been created we set off for home part paddling part blown along. 400m out we rafted up one final time to be briefed on the landing and unloading procedure and the others paddled off to beach their kayaks. With so much wind available we were able to use our sailing experience to hold our paddles in the air at various angles to the wind to guide us all the way to shore - very satisfying.

The obvious sense of anticlimax at being back made the unpacking a bit of a drudge but is was good to get out of the wet and put on some some warm dry clothes. As we’d got back early and packed away quickly we had a 1 hour wait for the shuttle bus that would take us back over the pass to West arm so Glenn joined Mathieu for a nature ramble, during which he tasted many of the local plants - something Mathieu has a penchant for, and Yvonne stayed and chatted to the dutch lady.

With the rain now falling we boarded the coach, drove over the pass and caught the boat back to Manapouri. Then it was off to an AirBnB place in Athos to shower, wash everything we own including the bedding AND eat the dinner we should have taken on the kayaking trip. Best of all we’d found a Christmas pudding in the reduced section a few days ago so we scoffed that with some custard - life doesn't get any better!

Ready for day two

The lull before the wind

Our freshwater shower

Mathieu and the dead shark