We awoke late in the morning to dry, but cool and windy weather, still alone in our hideaway, and then made our way around a dirt track that hugged the coastline to Allans Beach. A short walk through some fields brought us to a beautiful, secluded bay noted for penguins and seals. We wandered along the beach furtively looking for signs of wildlife until we rounded a large rock and nearly stepped on a sleeping seal. Retreating the recommended 10m we watched him for a while stretching and rolling then tracked around the other side of the rock to the end of the bay. Another small seal was lying well hidden amongst the rocks but no sign of penguins. With the tide coming in to trap us we returned to the van and set off for the Royal Albatross centre.
Discovering the admission fee was a hefty £20 each and learning that the chicks had yet to hatch so the adults were still nesting, therefore not flying, we decided to give it a miss and wander around the open areas of the headland. The cliffs were home to many other birds: cormorants, shags and gulls of every description, but the highlight for us was watching the seals swimming in the clear blue sea below us. They moved so effortlessly and frolicked together for a while when they met.
Pulling ourselves away from the seals we had one more penguin beach on our agenda. Sandfly Bay sits below some high cliffs and is backed by some huge dunes. The walk down offered us some breathtaking views. The guide pamphlet described the return up the sandy slope as ‘challenging’ and we passed several people that looked quite challenged.
This bay has a hide at the far end to watch the timid penguins return to their nests so we made our way along the beach scanning the surf for any brave enough to leave but all we found was another seal hauled out in the middle of the sand completely ambivalent to people walking past or taking photos. Nearing the other end we watched a large sea lion cruising up and down the waves fishing, occasionally waddling up the beach to make a guest appearance before returning to his natural domain. With no signs of penguins we sat in the sun and made ourselves as small as possible waiting for the arrival of the main turn. At one point the sea lion made one of his routine trips from the surf and waddled VERY close to us (he clearly didn't know of the 10m rule) offering us some great photos.
Having waited a while and knowing there are more opportunities further down the coast we finally gave up on the penguins, battled up the ‘challenging’ sand dune and set off further south.
We had a stop on the scenic coastal road in mind but missed our turn so we continued down the main highway before turning off for another wild camping location at the mouth of the river Taieri. Although we found the park we were disappointed to also find no camping signs at the entrance. Shame as it was in a beautiful spot so we dined there to enjoy the view then headed further south to a picnic spot off the side of the main highway. Handy but not quite the same!
The sleeping seal we nearly walked into. |
Seal swimming off the Royal Albatross centre. |
Beautiful Sandfly Bay |
The larger sea-lion that came to say hello. |
Yvonne slogging up the 'challenging' hill |
Ya'll are living the dream. You know your going to have to do this all again when Sarah and I retire. The photo are beautiful but I am sure they don't even give it justice.
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