No Fixed Abode: I can see clearly now

Sat 23 July 2016 - Injasuti, Central Drakensbergs

Having suffered the masses at Monk’s Cowl yesterday we sought solitude at the adjacent park of Injasuti. Although it is only a few km from Monk’s Cowl as the crow flies it is over 40km by road - and what a road. The first few km out of the Champagne valley and along the link road were fine but once we turned into the next valley things went steadily downhill. At first it was hundreds of pedestrians plus the odd cow herd in the road (this valley is clearly where the blacks live) then our beloved potholes appeared in increasing frequency and size and then the road turned into a dirt track. A very bumpy, stony track that wound up and down the valley floor for many km.

We eventually arrived at the car park with Yvonne in a state of nervous distress and Glenn relieved to be there in one piece. After discussing our route with a ranger and filling in the log book we were on our way. What a difference a day makes. The weather was much cooler (actually ideal walking conditions), we had the path to ourselves and the scenery was spectacular - much greener than anywhere else in the Drakensbergs that we’d been to with large valleys and lots of trees.

The first part of the walk was the inevitable climb up a large valley at the base of which we saw several waterfalls and then we climbed steadily diagonally up the valley side until we reached Grindstone Cave. The cave is really just a large overhang, similar to many others in these mountains, and the dried grass on the floor gave testament to the fact that they are often used as overnight stops by hikers on multi day trips. It was a very pleasant spot with a trickle of water running over the overhang into a small pools, which made an great water source but would have had us out of bed all night had we stayed here!

After mooching around in the cave a while we pushed on and climbed a little higher to reach the plateau then walked along until we below a rocky ridge rather charmingly named of “old women grinding corn”. As we sat on a windy hillside eating our lunch we noticed a large cloud bank rolling in - not the bright blue skies we’d been accustomed to and a portent of the rains forecast for tomorrow. Deciding to crack on in case the rain came early we walked along until the path we planned to take should have forked off the path we were on but there was no sign of it. No wishing to waste time searching for the path or forging a way across country we dropped straight down the hillside to meet another path that crossed the stream in the valley below us.

Although the new path was well defined it climbed back up the other side of the valley to regain the height we’d just lost but at least it did give us great views along the valley and we soon atop the far side looking down into the next valley and our way home. This valley is named ‘Cataract Valley’, which was strange co-incidence as the yesterday Yvonne’s mum had been in hospital having cataracts in her eye removed.

During our descent the sun reappeared, which made it very pleasant and we were soon ambling along the valley floor passing the many waterfalls, cascades and rock chutes that presumably give the valley its name. Once back in the main valley the path became easy and we wandered in the sunshine admiring the lovely scenery until we met a troop of baboons - Yvonne’s nemesis. She called for Glenn to wait and walked close until we’d passed them.

We arrived at the car mid afternoon, early for us, and drove slowly along the treacherous road - probably the worst we’d been on in South Africa, which is saying something. Once again the sides were thronged with masses of people and when we reached the crossroads with the link road we found where they were all heading to/from. A couple of bars playing music and some small shops clearly makes this THE place to be on a Saturday. Edging our way through the crowds we made the main road and were back in no time but with no sunshine and the temperature much cooler there was no sitting on the patio today.