No Fixed Abode: Fallen king

Sat 16 Jul 2016 - Mobile Safari Day 6: Chobe

After the quiet of Savuti the bush camp alive again last night with one of the hippos sounding particularly close. We had a light breakfast then went for an early morning game drive to try and see the leopard feeding. He was missing from the tree but we did see a hyena munching heartily on something just out of view near where the sickly lion had been last night. It seems even kings of the jungle can end up as somebody else's dinner.

After waiting a while in vain for the leopard to return we drove along the banks of the Chobe river watching the animals come for a drink. We passed a huge herd of buffalo all munching around in the bushes then spotted one having a really good scratch against a dead tree trunk. Lets explained they get covered in mud which then becomes itchy. A little further we found a small buffalo calf who has become lost. He was snuggling in the bushes but looked frightened and we felt sorry for him. Looking ahead we could see many other vehicles parked up so sped to join them. Out across the floor plain was a price of 7 lionesses, one with 3 cubs. We watched them feeding -possibly on the buffalo calf's mum - and playing, then one of the lionesses led the cubs back to the bank across a small channel where the cubs had to swim. What a treat to watch them. We wanted to stay longer but had to return for brunch and to strike camp.

Brunch was hearty and eaten while lots of giraffes were munching trees close by then KB presented Glenn with the remains of last night's desert, which he had said he would eat. Already full he had no choice but to finish the large bowl.

With camp packed away for the last time Let's drove us back along the river one more time to check on the leopard and after a lot of searching around we caught glimpses of him asleep deep under the branches of a nearby shrub. So not only did he show us a hyena and lion cubs, the last two things on Glenn's wish list, but he has found a leopard for us everyday. We asked if this was usual and he told us we'd had a very lucky trip as often you can go all week with no leopards, and we'd also seen the wild dogs on the first day, which are very rare.

The drive to the local town of Kasane was soon over and we checked in to our room and luxuriated in long hot showers, our first for a week. Briefly we caught up on the internet along with a message of a scan from Scottie advising he was going to be a dad again and we waited for Lets to collect us for our boat trip. Chobe park runs alongside the Chobe river and is divided into two halves, a driving section that we'd just left and a boat section. We arrived at a small jetty lined with many boats, with others already passing us on the river, and feared the tourist worst. However, our young guide did a great job of keeping us away from the crowds in our small boat and getting us really close to the animals.

Although we'd seen most of the animals from the shore it was fascinating to be down at their level and up close. Hippos, crocodiles, buffalo and elephants, all splashing around and munching the long fresh grass. We also saw many new birds, including the monochrome pied kingfisher that nests in a hole in the riverbank, and on the way back our guide found a superb spot to watch the sunset.

On our return we invited the boys to join us for dinner and it was good for them not to have to cook and wash up in their overnight campsite down the road. In readiness for an early departure tomorrow we said goodnight to the boys and fell into a real bed in a warm room.

Campfire tale: Lets told us of a time he’d been sitting in camp with a group of guests when he noticed an elephant walking around that looked like he would be trouble. It started to charge towards them so Lets shouted at the guests to run meanwhile he remained in his chair with a large stick at his side. When the elephant was near he leaped from his chair whacked the elephant on the trunk then as he ran one way the elephant ran the other never to be seen again. Well hard.