Friday, 29 July 2016

Peregrinations end

Wed 27 July 2016 - Drive to Johannesburg and fly home

Who ever thought this day would finally come? We had emptied the car and packed our bags for the final time yesterday so this morning’s getaway would be easy and with mixed feelings we said farewell to Ernest and Michelle and admired the beautiful snow capped Drakensberg Mountains lit by a bright sun under a blue sky - typical!

Our journey took us back over the Oliviershoek pass and past the Border Post, home of Simon the Phatt Chef and Megan, where we’d spent an enjoyable evening at the end of May. As we had plenty of time we called in to say hi and ended up staying nearly 2 hours chatting. They had had heavy snow on the Monday night and told us they had been mobbed the following day as apparently South African’s go crazy when there is a snowfall and travel for miles to play in it and there were still the remains of melted snowmen on the grass where the hoards had been. Megan also told they lost electricity for nearly 24 hours, which left them struggling to cater for their guests and the day visitors.

Leaving the Border Post we continued along the scenic R74 then made our way to the motorway and sped along the next 200km until we reached Heidelberg, where hunger finally got the better of us and we found a Steers burger restaurant, the South African McDonalds, and pulled over to repeat our first South African dinner, this time with a twist. This morning we had a lot of food and some wine left over so once we had our burgers we sat at an outside table in the sun and added some vegetables that we’d steamed before we left then poured some Cederberg wine into borrowed glasses to enjoy fast food in style.

After our meal diner we rejoined the motorway and covered the short distance to reach the sprawling outskirts of Johannesburg where we promptly ran into a massive traffic jam. With only three and a half hours before our flight left and the rush hour approaching things became a little tense but we were saved by the Sat Nav, which found us a way along some back roads and through an industrial estate to get us to the airport on time.

The friendly car rental guy checked the car and joyfully told us we could leave any spare food in the boot so he inherited the remains of our last bottle of Cederberg (which broke our hearts to leave) and some other goodies. Checkin and boarding was painless and we were soon sitting in our seats on the plane for the 12 hour flight home reminiscing about the amazing experiences we’d had over the last year and pondering our next adventures.

In the morning we traversed Heathrow arrivals in record time to be collected by our, soon to be, daughter-in-law Jess and Grandson Riley, who is now 3 and very chatty, and headed along the M4 to sunny Wokingham - home for now!


A big thank you to all our followers, especially those that left comments. You kept us sane.

Thursday, 28 July 2016

It rained and rained

Sun 24 - Tue 26 July 2016 - River Crossing Regretfully the weather forecast was correct and it rained almost solidly with occasional thunderstorms, day and night, for three days leaving us watching wistfully from the window at the cloud shrouded mountains. Occasionally the clouds parted revealing a snow covering on the upper levels and we wished we had our winter gear with us to go exploring. Consequently we stayed indoors trying to keep warm under rungs in a typical South African house that is built for the hot and therefore has single glazed windows, high ceilings and no insulation. Fortunately the internet was reasonable and the TV had good sport coverage so life was ok. On the evening of the 26th, the last night of our trip, we went out to dinner with Ernest and Michelle, our host at River Crossing, who have also travelled extensively so we had a lot to talk about comparing adventures. They had both worked in banking and retired at 55 when they bought the farm where they built River Crossing but they told us they were in the process of selling as they wanted to be ‘property free’ so they can travel around the world and live wherever they fancy. Ernest had taken a degree in later life and moved on to become a Phd in Theology. He is currently using his auditing skills to write a book that analyses the bible exploring the provenance of its stories.

This was a good break in the clouds...
..and on the last day they finally cleared
Dinner with Ernest and Michelle

Sunday, 24 July 2016

I can see clearly now

Sat 23 July 2016 - Injasuti, Central Drakensbergs

Having suffered the masses at Monk’s Cowl yesterday we sought solitude at the adjacent park of Injasuti. Although it is only a few km from Monk’s Cowl as the crow flies it is over 40km by road - and what a road. The first few km out of the Champagne valley and along the link road were fine but once we turned into the next valley things went steadily downhill. At first it was hundreds of pedestrians plus the odd cow herd in the road (this valley is clearly where the blacks live) then our beloved potholes appeared in increasing frequency and size and then the road turned into a dirt track. A very bumpy, stony track that wound up and down the valley floor for many km. 

We eventually arrived at the car park with Yvonne in a state of nervous distress and Glenn relieved to be there in one piece. After discussing our route with a ranger and filling in the log book we were on our way. What a difference a day makes. The weather was much cooler (actually ideal walking conditions), we had the path to ourselves and the scenery was spectacular - much greener than anywhere else in the Drakensbergs that we’d been to with large valleys and lots of trees.

The first part of the walk was the inevitable climb up a large valley at the base of which we saw several waterfalls and then we climbed steadily diagonally up the valley side until we reached Grindstone Cave. The cave is really just a large overhang, similar to many others in these mountains, and the dried grass on the floor gave testament to the fact that they are often used as overnight stops by hikers on multi day trips. It was a very pleasant spot with a trickle of water running over the overhang into a small pools, which made an great water source but would have had us out of bed all night had we stayed here!

After mooching around in the cave a while we pushed on and climbed a little higher to reach the plateau then walked along until we below a rocky ridge rather charmingly named of “old women grinding corn”. As we sat on a windy hillside eating our lunch we noticed a large cloud bank rolling in - not the bright blue skies we’d been accustomed to and a portent of the rains forecast for tomorrow. Deciding to crack on in case the rain came early we walked along until the path we planned to take should have forked off the path we were on but there was no sign of it. No wishing to waste time searching for the path or forging a way across country we dropped straight down the hillside to meet another path that crossed the stream in the valley below us.

Although the new path was well defined it climbed back up the other side of the valley to regain the height we’d just lost but at least it did give us great views along the valley and we soon atop the far side looking down into the next valley and our way home. This valley is named ‘Cataract Valley’, which was strange co-incidence as the yesterday Yvonne’s mum had been in hospital having cataracts in her eye removed.

During our descent the sun reappeared, which made it very pleasant and we were soon ambling along the valley floor passing the many waterfalls, cascades and rock chutes that presumably give the valley its name. Once back in the main valley the path became easy and we wandered in the sunshine admiring the lovely scenery until we met a troop of baboons - Yvonne’s nemesis. She called for Glenn to wait and walked close until we’d passed them.

We arrived at the car mid afternoon, early for us, and drove slowly along the treacherous road - probably the worst we’d been on in South Africa, which is saying something. Once again the sides were thronged with masses of people and when we reached the crossroads with the link road we found where they were all heading to/from. A couple of bars playing music and some small shops clearly makes this THE place to be on a Saturday. Edging our way through the crowds we made the main road and were back in no time but with no sunshine and the temperature much cooler there was no sitting on the patio today.

A green and leafy start to the day
Green slopes - very un-African
Yvonne passes the entrance to Grindstone Cave...
...then goes inside
Yvonne approaching our lunch spot 
The valley we crossed


Hiking with the masses

Fri 22 July 2016 - Monks Cowl Park, Central Drakensbergs

River Crossing our resort, is in Champagne Valley, the most developed area of the Drakensbergs with many other resorts off the central access road and very convenient for the Monks Cowl park, which also meant there were many other cars in the car park when we arrived in the morning. Having chatted with the rangers we decided to tackle the Blind Man’s Corner hike - a steady 19km to get us back into the swing of  walking, which we hadn’t done since Sossusvlei in Namibia, weeks ago.

It was a warm, clear morning with temperatures in the mid 20’s forecast, not bad for mid winter, and we set off on the steady climb to a rock feature named the Sphinx. As we wound up the trail we leapfrogged some couples of our age and were then overtaken by a large group of French speaking youngsters - what were all these people doing in our mountains? Half way up we stopped at the Crystal Falls, an aptly named waterfall of crystal clear water that had carved a narrow slot in the rock down which it was running.

A short while later we reached a large rock outcrop that we took for the Sphinx, although it didn’t bare much of a resemblance. What it did have was spectacular views and we tarried awhile watching the young French men climbing a rocky promontory to show off for photos, listening to some of the more frail girls crying and complaining about the exertion and waiting for them to get on their way. No solitude for us today.

Although old enough to be their parents, we soon powered past the youngsters working our way along a large plateau when, out of nowhere, the wind started blowing. As we reached the T junction of Blind Man’s Corner, where we would about turn, we rounded the corner seeking some shelter from the wind, which while not cold was blowing dust about, for our lunch.

Rested, nourished and satisfied with looking at the views we began making our way down. Fortunately the noisy youngsters had wolfed their lunch, as youngsters do, and left some time before us so peace had returned to the mountains and we enjoyed a steady descent down a different path. At one stage the wind picked up drastically and we had to stand still with our backs to the force to keep the dust from our eyes while we felt it blasting against our bare legs.

With most of the descent out of the way we reached a junction of paths and briefly discussed adding an extension loop but opted for an early finish to enjoy the sunshine. By mid afternoon we were back at the car and the short drive brought us back to our chalet where we sat on the patio in the sun soaking in the heat and admiring the view.

With the weather forecast not good for Sun, Mon and Tue so we prepared for an early start tomorrow.

Crystal falls

Great scenery

Cathkin Peak, over 3000m 
Yvonne at the Sphinx
Yvonne (the small figure) crossing the plateau
Cathkin Peak and Sterkhorn

Thursday, 21 July 2016

Time for a holiday

Thu 21 July 2016 - Central Drakensberg mountains

With a healthy breakfast start and fantastic shower we left Maropeng hotel to make our way south bypassing Pretoria and Jo’burg to our final travel destination before we head back to the UK. We’ve decided to take a week’s holiday returning to the Drakensberg mountains which we enjoyed so much weeks ago. This time we are heading to the Central area for 6 days of hiking if the weather allows, not forgetting it is still winter here so we anticipate minus nighttime temperatures.

Our route started on the N3 Durban highway with good quality tarmac roads and plenty of traffic moving around the outskirts of the two cities, we’ve not experienced this volume of traffic for months. We elected to leave the highway to take the scenic route passing through the northern Drakensberg area and passing the Phatt Chef hotel we had stayed some weeks ago at in preparation of hiking Sentinel Peak but had been permanently closed the same day due to hikers being attacked by some Lesotho locals.

In Winterton we did our last supermarket shop treating ourselves to some of the foods we have enjoyed in SA not least their rusks then headed to Bergview to find our lodge, River Crossing where we are staying for our last 6 days. Michelle and Ernest greeted us on arrival, introduced us to their african cat, Hunter and gave us a detailed tourist map of the area. We explained we were here for some good hiking and they shared the unfortunate news on the local weather, which is expected to turn very wintery in the next day or so, even the possibility of some snow.

Our lodge at River Crossing...
...and the view.



The Cradle

Wed 20 July 2016 - The Cradle of Humankind, SA

We had intended to leave early but breakfast in bed is never a good way to expedite getting up so we ended up a little late. Today we visited the Cradle of Humankind, an area of South Africa with the perfect combination of rocks and terrain to create and preserve fossils in caves where many remains of our ancestors have been found and the last place recommended by Carol and Philip, our SA friends.

On a hope we punched it in the sat nav and were surprised that it found it and presented a route so we joined the N4 and sped on our way. An hour and several sets of roadworks later we turned off the and followed a regional road across the rolling hills - a very pleasant change from the flat plains of Botswana. We followed brown (tourist) direction signs that were contrary to the sat nav and ended up taking a massive detour until we gave up, followed the sat nav and reached the Maropeng visitor centre. It seems a large area is named ‘The Cradle of Humankind’ and we hadn’t realised the visitor centre had a name of it's own.

So, somewhat later than intended, we arrived at the centre, bought our tickets and entered the very snazzy foyer. Maropeng is a hands on centre dealing with man's evolution from apes and the fossil record that identify the various hominid species that ultimately ended up with home sapiens i.e. us. The entrance took us on a small boat ride through the four elements of water, earth, fire and air trying to give us a feeling of going back through time with volcanic activity and ice ages. It was very Disney but must be good to grab children's attention. Once off the boat we walked through a rotating cylinder covered with stars that was very disorientating but not sure what relevance it had and finally we emerged in a large underground hall containing all the exhibits.

At first we pretty much had it to ourselves and we spent a long time reading the information boards and looking at the life sized models of what the experts think our ancestors looked like. It was interesting to learn about the evolutionary stages e.g. standing up to walk on two legs, and the advantage each bestowed, freeing the hands for other tasks, initially food gathering, and how we slowly developed larger brains, controlled fire, made tools and developed speech. We really are quite amazing.

As we neared the final exhibits about our advanced skills a large group of teenage schoolchildren entered making a heck of a racket. They whisked through the exhibits, paying very little attention, then went outside - not sure how much they learned.

As they left and calm returned we walked along one of the walls which had information about global warming, overpopulation, water scarcity that sort of thing and as we left we got the twin message - it’s taken hundreds of thousands of years to get to where we are now and if we’re not careful we’re going to destroy it all. Apparently there have been 5 mass extinction events in history (asteroid collisions, ice ages etc) and many experts believe we are in the process of a 6th - the first ever caused by one species on all others. That’s not one for the cv!

Once out of the centre we took a short walk and then returned to the car to find our hotel. Glenn pulled up the booking and found there was no address, only some directions, so we poured over the maps to try and make sense of them when Yvonne noticed the name was the same as the visitor centre. She asked the security guard for directions and found the hotel was on site, just around the corner. What a result. And to make things even better the hotel was gorgeous: modern, bright, well finished, fabulous views and with the fastest internet we’ve had in Africa. We cranked the heating up, a real treat, slipped into the thick towel dressing gowns and spent hours surfing, blogging and communicating with home. Later we snuggled into the comfy warm bed and pondered what breakfast would be like.


The Cradle of Humanity

We've seen these all over - weaver bird nests

Glenn takes a cuppa at the boutique hotel

Sunset from the terrace

Wednesday, 20 July 2016

The last leg

Tue 19 July 2016 - Kang, Botswana to Swartruggens, SA

Another 500km travel day that took us from our overnight stop at the Kang Autostop to South Africa (SA), our last country before home. The Autostop was a strange place with motel like rooms, a petrol station, shop and restaurant - in fact everything one could need to break a journey across a desert. I’m not sure what the definition of a desert is but the Kalahari that we passed through certainly didn’t look like any other desert we’ve been to, just miles and miles of low trees and shrubs. Maybe the designated parks are better.

About half way along our journey we saw what we first thought was a small hill, very noticeable in the flat landscape, but as we got closer a sizeable town appeared and we realised it was the spoil from a vast mine. We’re not sure what they were mining but the town looked very prosperous and the level of traffic on the road increased dramatically afterwards.

As we neared the border the terrain finally started to undulate until we dropped into a significant valley to the border post. Like the SA - Namibia border, the Botswana side was a simply pull over with a visit to a small hut to have our passports stamped whereas the SA side comprised of dedicated lanes for trucks, cars and buses and large modern buildings all surrounded by high fences topped with razor wire. The transition was actually very swift and within 20 minutes (yup, that’s swift) we were back on SA soil heading along a toll road for the small town of Swartruggens. Like the rests of rural SA the roads were lined with people walking, especially when we passed two schools at leaving time, and hundreds of poor houses.

An hour or so later we’d just entered the town when the sat nav instructed to turn left along a dirt track that we bumped along, seemingly heading out into fields, until we found a sign to the Hadida Guest house. We drove down the long bumpy drive until we came to a small farm to be greeted by Alma, our host, who showed us to our charming thatched house complete with garden. Yes, garden, the first we’ve seen for a very long time. After unloading the bags we sat on the porch drinking tea while two of Alma’s dogs befriended Yvonne and curled up at her feet.

A short while later Gary, another SA guest, arrived and we chatted about football (he was a Chelsea fan), Brexit, the state of SA and the chances of him immigrating to the UK - like many young white South Africans he was looking to leave. Mid discussion Alma arrived with our dinner: Lasagne. We couldn’t remember the last time we ate that and it was a real joy, especially washed down with a lovely Cederberg Rose wine - we have 8 days left to drink the last 3 bottles we have left. A challenge but we’ll try our hardest.

The Kang Autostop
Crazy people cycling across the Kalahari 
Our house at the Hadida
Yvonne with here new best friend

Long slog

Mon 18 July 2016 - Maun to Kang, Botswana

After saying our fond farewells to all the lovely folk at Audi camp we exchanged emails with KB, so he could send us the recipe to his signature dessert, then set off for the 550 km journey to Kang.

Nothing much to say really except 550 kms of really boring bush. Aside from the glorious parks, Botswana is one large, flat shrubbery. We expected to be passing through the Kalahari desert, and maybe we did, but it was shrubs all the way. Maybe tomorrow's second leg will reveal some sand.

Weird markers on Botswanan roads. Not sure what they mark.
The Kahalari 'desert'

The long road home

Sun 17 Jul 2016 - Mobile Safari Day 7: Return drive to Maun

Showered and ready for the 0630 departure Lets and KB had pulled down the sides to the safari truck to keep us warm as the journey today was going to be a fast one with the whole route of 700 km on tarmac roads. Snuggled in our early morning safari layers we drove off south watching the sun rise but giving little warmth in our compartment. Lets would be driving for 8 hours today only to stop briefly at Nata where they both picked up some goodies for the rest of the 300 km driving west to Maun and back to Audi camp arriving at 2.30pm to say our farewells to them both and thank them for an outstanding experience of wild camping and game viewing in Botswana.

Fallen king

Sat 16 Jul 2016 - Mobile Safari Day 6: Chobe

After the quiet of Savuti the bush camp alive again last night with one of the hippos sounding particularly close. We had a light breakfast then went for an early morning game drive to try and see the leopard feeding. He was missing from the tree but we did see a hyena munching heartily on something just out of view near where the sickly lion had been last night. It seems even kings of the jungle can end up as somebody else's dinner.

After waiting a while in vain for the leopard to return we drove along the banks of the Chobe river watching the animals come for a drink. We passed a huge herd of buffalo all munching around in the bushes then spotted one having a really good scratch against a dead tree trunk. Lets explained they get covered in mud which then becomes itchy. A little further we found a small buffalo calf who has become lost. He was snuggling in the bushes but looked frightened and we felt sorry for him. Looking ahead we could see many other vehicles parked up so sped to join them. Out across the floor plain was a price of 7 lionesses, one with 3 cubs. We watched them feeding -possibly on the buffalo calf's mum - and playing, then one of the lionesses led the cubs back to the bank across a small channel where the cubs had to swim. What a treat to watch them. We wanted to stay longer but had to return for brunch and to strike camp.

Brunch was hearty and eaten while lots of giraffes were munching trees close by then KB presented Glenn with the remains of last night's desert, which he had said he would eat. Already full he had no choice but to finish the large bowl.

With camp packed away for the last time Let's drove us back along the river one more time to check on the leopard and after a lot of searching around we caught glimpses of him asleep deep under the branches of a nearby shrub. So not only did he show us a hyena and lion cubs, the last two things on Glenn's wish list, but he has found a leopard for us everyday. We asked if this was usual and he told us we'd had a very lucky trip as often you can go all week with no leopards, and we'd also seen the wild dogs on the first day, which are very rare.

The drive to the local town of Kasane was soon over and we checked in to our room and luxuriated in long hot showers, our first for a week. Briefly we caught up on the internet along with a message of a scan from Scottie advising he was going to be a dad again and we waited for Lets to collect us for our boat trip. Chobe park runs alongside the Chobe river and is divided into two halves, a driving section that we'd just left and a boat section. We arrived at a small jetty lined with many boats, with others already passing us on the river, and feared the tourist worst. However, our young guide did a great job of keeping us away from the crowds in our small boat and getting us really close to the animals. 

Although we'd seen most of the animals from the shore it was fascinating to be down at their level and up close. Hippos, crocodiles, buffalo and elephants, all splashing around and munching the long fresh grass. We also saw many new birds, including the monochrome pied kingfisher that nests in a hole in the riverbank, and on the way back our guide found a superb spot to watch the sunset.

On our return we invited the boys to join us for dinner and it was good for them not to have to cook and wash up in their overnight campsite down the road. In readiness for an early departure tomorrow we said goodnight to the boys and fell into a real bed in a warm room.

Campfire tale: Lets told us of a time he’d been sitting in camp with a group of guests when he noticed an elephant walking around that looked like he would be trouble. It started to charge towards them so Lets shouted at the guests to run meanwhile he remained in his chair with a large stick at his side. When the elephant was near he leaped from his chair whacked the elephant on the trunk then as he ran one way the elephant ran the other never to be seen again. Well hard.

The hyena munching on, presumably, the dead lion
Two sisters greet each other
Family scene. Aunt at the back is still dining
Mum brings the kids back to the riverbank
The last camp breakfast
Darter
Pied kingfisher
Munching buffalo
Elephants leave the bush for a drink
Chobe river sunset

Monday, 18 July 2016

Shoal of birds

Fri 15 Jul 2016 - Mobile Safari Day 5: Savuti to Chobe

Another long drive today so up and away by 0700 with a super quick camp strike and heading off just at sunrise and not long into the journey out of camp we came across a massive flock of quelea birds who were congregating in several bushes nearby a water hole and flying around in swarms against the blue sky and with the sun glistening on them they resembled shoals of silver fish darting around a blue ocean.

We continued along many km of bumpy sandy roads for roughly 5 hours leaving the Savuti area when we reached a tarmac road which leads to the main gate entrance to Chobe NP. We stopped on the side of the road for lunch where we sat with a magnificent view of the Chobe river plain to the Namibian border, both sides very green from the river. We made good progress along the tarmac road and arrived at the NP gate completing the registration formalities and headed along the Chobe river bank to turn off and hit the 4x4 trail to reach our remote campsite at 3pm in a lovely spot amongst trees which elephants are not partial to, much to KB’s relief.

Lets took us on a couple of hours game drive perfect timing for the animals coming to the river to drink - spotting many giraffe making their way down along, a poorly looking lion lying in the water and mud with a croc nearby, a magnificent male leopard lying in a tree with a dead impala draped in the lower branches, a young fish eagle eating a fish, great white egret fishing, a local Namibian in a mokoro fishing and massive herds of impala moving into bush for the night.

KB cooked another fantastic meal for us all to enjoy a last dinner together listening to noisy jackals cackling which Lets told us was them being very happy, probably from a kill. 

Flock or shoal of quelea birds? The description of "very gregarious" is an understatement.
Lunch stop view over the Chobe valley
Our final lovely camp site at Chobe
A sickly lion looking unhappy in the mud
Stalks
Handsome leopard
Huge herd of impala leaves the riverside in the setting sun

Bridge over the river KwaiL

Thu 14 Jul 2016 - Mobile Safari Day 4: Moremi to Savuti

With a long drive to Savuti today we packed up and were away early but before we left we went in search of phase prints from the lion that walked passed last night. They were very large and only 18m from where we had been sitting! Taking the long drive out of Moremi along the 4x4 trails we eventually reached the entrance gate to Chobe NP which leads to Savuti. Here we passed a local community with a couple of shops and their mixed housing of concrete squares, rondavels and corrugated iron shacks. We drove over a rickety log bridge with many of the logs split and broken yet Lets calmly got the truck and trailer over safely. 

The 4x4 trail now became deep red sand and Lets was maneuvering us around in various gears and locking and releasing the diff lock nuts on the wheels and getting us through where others were having difficulties making way through the deep sand. We drove for a long way in this terrain with little to see as the bush had been cleared either side of the tracks or where it remained and not yet decimated by elephants hindered any potential viewings. We powered on until we reach a large floodplain that the river Kwai flows into and dries out in the winter. We stopped at the edge of the pan beneath one to two trees which had a dented sign nailed to it stating Savuti rest stop. Shaded from the heat and with lunch prepared we ate watching giraffe loping by and several warthogs trotting to the nearby water hole.

The 4x4 trail was endless for hours and hours but finally we made it to the park entrance gate where Lets did the formalities and we filled up all the water containers before heading off along more 4x4 sand tracks and now the heat of the day was cooling off. During the journey Lets spotted another safari jeep off the trail slightly and recognised the driver as the owner of Audi camp, Richard, who is also a movie maker. He had been watching a female leopard for 5 days and showed us where she was. We watched her for 30 mins while she sat perched on a dead log to look for prey, at one point setting off to stalk something but then returned to log empty mouthed. We needed to make our way as Lets wanted to show us some Bushman paintings on a rock wall and a small spring at the foot of a large rocky outcrop known locally as Leopards Rock. We climbed to a good height to see the paintings and it gave us impressive views over the landscape of endless bush and green trees. With the sun getting low we still had another long drive through bush passing many groups of elephants who were snap and crackling through the bush. 

Lets hastily drove along the trails when finally we arrived at a large savanna grass land clearing with a dried up waterhole and a couple of trees and Lets declared this was our remote campsite for tonight. With about half an hour before sunset we all chipped in setting up camp, collecting firewood from around and about to light the campfire where KB provided a fantastic fillet of beef dinner. The sunset was stunning at this location and as night darkness fell the moon and stars were extremely bright tonight. After some more stories around the campfire we all had an early night with no background sounds to keep us alert. 

Campfire tale: Lets recalled day when he was boy and he was out in the bush with his grandfather when they inadvertently stumbled in to a pride of lions. One attacked his grandfather who managed to throw his gun towards Lets who took aim and killed the lion. 



Paw prints from last night's Lion visit 
The rickety bridge over the river Kwai
Village at the park gate
Lunch at the pan
Savuti Leopardess
View from the rock
Rock art
Camp clearing